How it all began.....
I'm resurrecting a write up that I did for my local cake club a while back. This was included in a fundraiser cookbook that we sold. It is a compilation of various substitutes and strategies for baking dairy and egg free. New brands of things like non-dairy yogurt and soy free margarines have come on the market since this was written.
Dairy
In recipes, dairy usually comes in the form of
liquid (or powdered) milk, butter, sour cream, yogurt and cream cheese. There are many substitutes and replacement
for all of these things.
Cow’s milk is composed of about 85%
water. The other 15% is a combination of
milk sugar (lactose), two main kinds of protein (whey and casein), fat and a
combination of salts that add flavor but also promote protein coagulation in
eggs. Dairy in baked goods provides
moisture, tenderness, emulsifiers and a preservative against staling.
In
general, liquid dairy (cow’s milk) can be replaced 1:1 w/ liquid soy or rice
milk. There are lots more options these days also. Unsweetened So Delicious coconut beverage is one of my go-to choices. If you can have nuts, almond milk is great in baked goods.
Another alternative is a product
called Dari Free which is a powder that needs to be reconstituted w/ water. If you are not able to find this locally, it can be ordered on-line. It is
dairy, soy and rice free – based on potato maltodextrin and corn based
crystalline fructose. In addition to
Dari Free, there are also powdered rice and soy milks that can be used to
replace powdered milk. Powdered milk can
also often be replaced w/ sweet rice flour (mochiko) or ground almond
meal.
All
of these alternatives are lower in fat and protein than whole milk, but are
generally sufficient in most baking recipes. These lower fat alternatives will
not work if the recipe is relying on the fat content (such as whipped
cream). When a “heavier” dairy product
is called for, sometimes full fat coconut milk makes reasonable substitute.
Most
milk alternatives will change the taste and possibly color of a baked good. Sometimes they will also change the texture
which will be less tender. Most milk
alternatives tend to be rather sweet and not as neutral as cow’s milk. Most tend to have a tan or “off” color in light colored dishes and baked goods.
Buttermilk is an acidulated dairy
product. It provides a tart flavor and
often the acid component is used to activate baking soda in a recipe. To make a buttermilk substitute, place 1 Tbsp
of vinegar or other acid (lemon juice works) in a measuring cup and fill to the
1 cup line with whatever milk alternative you prefer. Stir and allow to sit for 5
minutes before using.
Butter can be usually be substituted
w/ a dairy free margarine. Many (if not
most) margarines are not dairy free and contain some form of whey or milk
solids. Look for a margarine that is
marked Kosher Parve. When substituting
margarine for butter, be sure to use a high fat content margarine. Do not use “light” or whipped tub margarines
as these are too high in water content and will not work well for baking. My favorite dairy free margarines for baking
are Nucoa sticks and Saffola Unsalted sticks.
These are both based on hydrogenated soy oils. There are other dairy free margarines out
there.
Dairy
and soy free margarines are very difficult to find. There is margarine that is made Kosher for
Passover that is generally available in the spring that based on hydrogentated
cottonseed oils. These margarines are
dairy, soy, corn and gluten free due to the restrictions at Passover. These can be very difficult to find out of
season. These margarines freeze very
well and can be stockpiled in the spring.
They come in both salted and unsalted versions. Again, you want the sticks for baking and not
the tubs.
There is also a version of Earth Balance that is dairy and soy free, but it does have corn based natural flavors and pea protein which is an issue for some.
Yogurt – there are many soy
yogurts out there and generally, an unflavored yogurt can directly replace
dairy yogurt in a recipe. Be aware, that
some soy yogurts still contain trace amounts of dairy because they contain
cultures that were grown on dairy.
Sour Cream – there a number of soy
based sour cream substitutes available. Be sure to look for one that does not contain
any dairy. A good one to use if you can
use soy is Tofutti brand.
Cream Cheese – Tofutti makes a good soy
cream cheese substitute. This will even
work in cheesecakes. It is rather
expensive though compared to dairy cream cheese. Daiya now makes a dairy and soy free cream cheese, but it is not as smooth as Tofutti.
Eggs
Egg is a complex combination of fat, protein, and
water. They play many roles in baked
goods which often make them difficult to substitute. Eggs provide structure, moisture, leavening
and emulsifiers to a batter. The egg
white is mostly water and a lot of protein along w/ a few vitamins, minerals
and some sulfur. The egg yolk contains
all of the egg’s fat, cholesterol, phospholipids, and the emulsifier lecithin. The yolk also contains some water and
proteins.
To
effectively replace eggs in a recipe, it is important to determine what their
major role is in the batter. In the
majority of baked goods, eggs provide moisture, leavening, and some structure
as a binder or emulsifier. Egg whites in
a batter generally provide more protein structure. Egg yolks provide fats and emulsifiers to
keep things more moist.
In
batters based on egg foam, it is nearly impossible to replace the protein
structure and leavening power of the egg whites. Sometimes these can be reworked w/ gelatin to
provide the foam structure. Eggs provide
gelling power and are difficult to replace in low flour/flourless recipes such
as brownies and flourless chocolate cakes.
These generally do not work w/ any type of egg replacer. You wind up w/ a bubbly brownie soup that
has no structure. There are some tried
and true vegan brownie recipes out there that do work, but they tend to produce
a drier, cakey type brownie and not fudgy, chewy one.
There
are many different egg replacer concoctions, but there is no universal egg
replacement that works for everything.
EnerG Egg Replacer – this is a commercial
product that comes as a dry powder. It’s
a combination of starch, gums, and leavening agents. The directions on the box call for 1 ½ tsp of
powder plus 2 Tbsp water mixed to replace 1 egg. I have found that it works better by doubling
the amount of powder used per egg. Use a
rounded Tbsp of powder to 2 Tbsp of water per egg. This product works when replacing 1 or 2 eggs
in a recipe. Replacing 3 or more eggs is
not recommended. Egg replacer w/ cake
mixes is not always predictable. It will
work in some, but not others. The only
way to know it to try it. I have found
that Egg Replacer generally produces a drier, gummier product. Adding a little extra oil can sometimes help
this.
Applesauce – this is a good egg
replacer when eggs are needed to provide moisture in a baked good. This works well in heavy batters such as
quick breads and cookies. A neutral
tasting, unsweetened applesauce will have the least effect on the taste. I have found that using ¼ cup unsweetened
applesauce plus ½ tsp baking powder works very well in most applications. I have found that this combination provides a
good source of moisture and the natural fruit pectin seems to work well for the
structure. In cake batters, this works
very well in recipes that call for cake flour.
It can sometimes get heavy and gooey w/ recipes calling for AP flour.
Fruit Purees – other fruit purees such
as pear sauce, prune puree, apricot puree, pumpkin and banana can also be used
to replace eggs. These work best in
quick breads and cookies. These will
affect the taste, so be sure to choose one that will compliment the flavor the
baked good. Use ¼ cup fruit puree or 1
small banana per egg.
Baking powder, oil, and
water –
this concoction consisting of 1 ½ tsp oil, 1 ½ tsp water, and 1 - 2 tsp baking
powder works well for recipes where the egg is mainly there for leavening. This concoction works well in cookies. I have found that this does not work well in
cake mixes that call for oil. Since
there are no emulsifiers or proteins, the final product tends to be very heavy
and greasy.
Gelatin – mix 2 tsp of gelatin w/
1 cup of water, bloom then bring to a boil and allow to cool. Use 3 ½ tsp of this mixture to replace 1
egg. This concoction works very well
when the eggs provide structure and binding in a recipe. This works very well in gluten free baked
goods to provide structure and hold moisture.
This concoction does not provide much leavening. Regular animal based gelatin can be used or Kosher/vegetable
based gelatins.
Flax seed goo – a mixture of 1 Tbsp
ground flax seeds combined w/ 3 Tbsp of water is used to replace 1 egg. Flax seeds go rancid very easily and should
be stored in the fridge or freezer. It
is best to buy whole seeds and grind them as needed in a coffee or spice
grinder. Flax has a lot of lipids and
proteins that works well as binding agents and emulsifiers.
Tofu – ¼ cup of whipped soft
tofu will substitute for 1 egg. This
works well in recipes where the egg is providing a lot of the moisture. Be sure to whip or puree this to avoid any
lumps in the final product.